Tegelbacken is taking shape. The paving is complete and all that remains is the planting before a Stockholm oasis opens up. I'm standing in the suite at the newly renovated Sheraton Hotel and looking down – it looks promising out there and so does the inside. But let's backtrack and have lunch at the hotel's newly opened restaurant Mr. Bronck.

Sheraton Hotel opened in 1971 and was the very first Sheraton hotel in Europe. Over the years, international travelers, politicians and world celebrities have contributed to putting the hotel on the world map. Now, after an investment of over 400 million kronor, it is once again ready to serve its guests – both food and drink as well as accommodation and premises for parties and meetings. Interior designers from ADC & Tuneau were responsible for creating the environment. Restaurant Mr. Bronck gets its name from the Swedish emigrant Jonas Jonsson Bronck from Småland. Once in New York, he bought land north of the Harlem River in an area that came to be called Broncksland, which was later named the Bronx. The American vibes are clear – especially in the menu. Pontus Wellén, head chef at Mr. Bronck, describes his food concept as follows:

– We want to create an experience where everything fits without feeling strained. We take American classics and turn up the flavors, while Scandinavian ingredients elevate the dishes where they make a difference. Well-prepared food with distinct flavors, a perfectly matched wine and an atmosphere that makes it easy to stay. The menu is divided into different concepts, such as Raw & Bubbles and Dogs & Rolls. The drinks menu is broad and the American wines have a
obvious place. We will leave the political discussion about them there. The old world of wine also has a place and both entry-level wines and exclusive vintages are available here. Hotel manager Elin Roquet welcomes us and introduces both the head chef and Janni Berndt, head sommelier and restaurant manager: – One of our goals is to
the guests will be staying here for a long time – a lunch that drags on and suddenly it's five o'clock. Enjoy your lunch. Please tell everyone if it was good – and tell me if anything wasn't good, she says. The glasses are served
champagne from Deutz, which is the house champagne here, or a non-alcoholic one from Odd Bird served in a mini bottle. For starters we get a Scallop Crudo with kumquat, tomatoes, seafood emulsion and greens, or a vegetarian version that looks the same but where the scallops have been replaced with hearts of palm. Both are super delicious, with lovely textures, stylish arrangements and an emulsion I struggle to get every last drop of. At the table we talk about Robinson and design.

We take American classics and turn up the flavors, while Scandinavian ingredients elevate the dishes where they make a difference.

So far, the American element has not been so evident on the plate, but now that is changing. Generous portions of Surf & Turf, lobster and entrecote, are served. To go with this, fries and choron sauce. The meat is good, but the lobster is perhaps even better. The fries are thin, firm and crispy. If there is anything to complain about, it is probably the size of the portions. I am thinking about a doggy bag – but I eat it up. The acoustics are muted. And if the City Hall were not in front of me and the traffic was crossing the bridge towards Gamla Stan, we could have been somewhere else. But here we are, in the middle of Stockholm, in this blue-listed building, the highest classification for buildings with
extremely high cultural and historical values. The detail I absolutely love is the facade – here clad in brown-red glazed tiles in IFÖ chamotte. The lunch is rounded off with a donut with marshmallow and coffee. Fluffy and crazy sweet. We finish at the top of the suite – it is incomparable and absolutely perfect for events ”in the room”.
“The only thing I really miss here is a rooftop bar,” I say to Elin Roquet. She suggests that it’s something that needs to be looked at, and that the height of the building next door might open up such possibilities. A prime location
to look forward to!.

MR. BRONCK RESTAURANT & GRILL
Vasagatan 2, Stockholm
Booth booking: www.sevenrooms.com/
reservations/MrBronck