Spanish rural charm meets modern metropolitan architecture high above the Stockholm River. In one of the glass pavilions of Mälarterrassen, Villa Valentina has opened its doors – a restaurant that wants to take guests on a culinary journey to Spain, with perhaps the capital's most magnificent view as a backdrop.
Framed almost like an aquarium, lies a Spanish bodega, complete with stone floors, hand-painted walls and large Murano lamps.
There is a lot going on at Slussen right now. Mälarterrassen has emerged as a new meeting place for food, drink and socializing, with both indoor and outdoor seating. Central to the initiative are the two glass pavilions that float above Södermalmstorg and are framed by the Mälar stairs. The buildings were designed by Foster + Partners together with Berg Arkitektkontor and give the place a distinctly international feel. The view of the Old Town and Riddarfjärden comes as a bonus.
On a sunny day, two colleagues and I step through the doors for a late lunch. Framed almost like an aquarium, there is a Spanish bodega, complete with stone floors, hand-painted walls and large Murano lamps. A multitude of plants, both live and dried, ceramic vessels, bottles and decorative details fill the space. Maximalism prevails, but without feeling cluttered. The acoustics are muted, a faint slurp can be heard from the kitchen and the staff moves calmly between the tables as preparations for the evening service are underway.
We sit in soft chairs at a round table indoors. The ambition is evident not least in the size. With room for over 400 guests, Villa Valentina is one of the largest restaurants in the area.
The menu is based on the Spanish way of eating together. The dishes are meant to be shared around the table and are divided into categories such as ”From the Sea”, ”From the Farm” and ”From the Garden”. We start with some smaller dishes and immediately fall for the croquetas with pata negra. They are crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside and have a distinct saltiness that makes them hard to stop eating. Green, freshly fried padróns with salt and lemon break up nicely against the fuller flavors.
The interior constantly competes with the view for attention. Through the glass walls, construction cranes, the Katarina Lift, the Old Town skyline and the sparkling water below are visible. Slussen is still under development, but the view of the city is already an obvious part of the experience.
Villa Valentina attracts with its Spanish concept in the middle of one of Stockholm's most talked-about urban development projects
Gradually, the table is filled with more dishes. The sharing concept is the restaurant's great strength. Guests can put together a simpler meal or have the table filled with small and large servings depending on the company, hunger and budget.
Rose wine, red wine and non-alcoholic beer are served in glasses. The table is served with gambas, calamari, chicken thighs and pluma ibérica de bellota. The pluma quickly becomes a favorite among my colleagues thanks to its juicy meat and clear grilled character. I myself am more drawn to the seafood, although I would have liked to see a slightly crispier frying of the calamari. However, there is nothing wrong with the taste – the ingredients feel both fresh and well-handled. The gambas are served in a tasty lobster sauce with a pleasant sting of chili. The freshly baked bread is left to do its job and is used extensively to catch the last drops of the rich sauce.
For dessert we choose three different finishes: Tarta de Queso, Valentinas Torrija and Helado de Pistacho. Despite the rather unassuming presentation, it is the Basque cheesecake that wins by far. With browned butter and dulce de leche, it is both smooth, rich and full of character.
When we leave Mälarterrassen a few hours later, the restaurant is significantly more well-stocked than when we arrived. Villa Valentina attracts with its Spanish concept in the middle of one of Stockholm's most talked-about urban development projects. Above all, it is the overall experience that impresses - the combination of the view, the caring environment and the social dining concept makes the restaurant an interesting addition to Stockholm's restaurant scene.
