A new spa destination has arrived in Stockholm. INRIKES checks in and allows itself to be embraced by heat and cold, tradition and innovation for three hours. We believe we have found Stockholm's best spa experience.

The easiest way to get to Hagastrand in Hagaparken, if you're using public transport, is to take the commuter train to Solna and then the bus, which stops almost directly outside the entrance. I personally prefer to walk through Hagaparken, straight ahead past the Copper Tents and the Butterfly House. The walking path ends, and I continue along a small path beside it – I thank Google Maps for the guidance and step inside.
The hotel's new entrance is in an extension to the building, and the reception area is circular. Something happens here that really shouldn't. Two people are working at reception, both busy – one with a guest, one with a craftsman. I try to make contact, but both walk away without noticing me. A quick nod or
A ”I'll be right there” would have sufficed. Enough of that. I make my way inside to look for the spa area, and walk through the entire building. It's lovely here – high ceilings, large lamps, a nature-inspired colour scheme, and a staircase. Wingårdh Arkitektkontor was responsible for the interior. At the very back, I finally find an employee who helps me.

– Go back and take the lift down, she says, and accompanies me. I thank her and go down. Down here, the level of service immediately improves. A bag packed with towels and a bathrobe is waiting – no slippers.
– We are a barefoot spa, says the spa receptionist. We are also mobile-free here, she adds, asking me to produce my mobile. She then puts it into a case, which she locks.

The colour scheme down here is also inspired by nature, with shades of beige and brown. The products that complement the concept are from Comfort Zone’s Tranquillity range, which smells lovely. Having had a shower and sanitised my feet, I’m ready to step inside. I’m welcomed by a chap who’s been working here since the opening in October. He shows me round and gives me a few tips. I start by taking a plunge into the 18-metre-long pool.

– We have music beneath the surface. One tip is to swim on your back, he says. I swim on, on my back, on my front. It’s possible to peek up at the sky from here, and today it’s greyer than grey. It’s not the swimming itself that is
the essence of the concept here. The focus is instead on different types of saunas and two rather unusual features – more on these in a moment. I love saunas, and prefer to start with the cooler options before moving on to the classic Finnish sauna. First up is the steam sauna, where you take a bowl of salt in with you for a proper body scrub. Next is the herbal sauna. I try to identify the scent; a pot is hanging in the middle of the sauna. At first I think I can smell bay leaves, but a moment later I realise it’s cloves. My visit is
before Christmas, so the match is perfect. Right at my slot time, there are only three of us here. However, there is space for up to 60 people. To cool down, I step into the experience shower, choosing the middle programme which is a form of cold mist. I test the other two modes too, and here hot and cold are alternated.
”Tropical Rain” – I think that was the name of my
I pull the rope to the ice bucket, which I’ve now found outside this sauna, and realise that ”just” this sauna ritual, which is part of your visit, means you actually have to book a visit here.

My favourite spot. It’s time for the Finnish sauna. I’m pleased to see that there’s a classic sand timer here. Two 15-minute sessions are my thing, and in between, I cool down in the snow sauna. To really feel the cold, I take snow from the walls and rub it into my skin. It’s cool and cold, but I
I miss the ice bucket here – it exists, just not right here. Afterwards, a session in the gong room awaits. Warm beds, nine of them, a gong as decoration – the sound is pre-recorded. It's relaxing, but if I had to choose, I’d want someone to play for me. However, here it's a smart solution and a different experience. My last stop here is the IR sauna, which is absolutely wonderful. Turn on the IR lamp, press start, and put on your headphones. The red light shines and the bed vibrates. It’s so nice that it’ll be a repeat performance. It's time to rehydrate, and then a sauna ritual awaits. The sauna is large and actually has room for 60 people on three levels. Before we go in, my sauna master shows me three snowballs.

‘These are infused with essential oils,’ she says. I sit down in the middle of the large sauna, in front of the sauna bench. It’s dark in here, and music can be heard in the background. She places the first ball on the bench. There’s a sizzling sound and the scent of sage and frankincense spreads as she fans it towards me with fabric feathers. I breathe in and out, whilst she dances in a choreographed routine. Ball number two offers the scent of lime and rosemary,
And finally, she serves a scoop of ice cream with the scent of blood orange. It’s actually impossible to explain
just how fantastic this is. I pull the rope to the ice bucket, which I’ve now found outside this sauna, and realise that ”just” this sauna ritual, which is part of your visit, means you really must book a visit here – to what is currently Stockholm’s best spa experience!
HAGASTRAND SPA
Frösundaviks allé 15, Solna
www.hagastrand.se
Price: 3 hours: Monday–Thursday, 995 SEK,
Friday–Sunday, 1,395 SEK
Tips: You can also book packages with
accommodation and spa entry.
